Big Island Must See’s: Sunset from Mauna Kea

I’m starting a new series of posts on things to see and do primarily on the Big Island (where I live). And what better way than to start from the top: the summit of Mauna Kea.

This trip is amazing. Where on earth can you go from sea-level to almost 14,000 feet in a matter of a couple of hours? Here are a few tips if you are considering this journey:

• If you are starting from Kona, plan on leaving about two-o’clock in the afternoon for your trip. Go north on Highway 19 to Waikaloa Road, turn right and head up past Waikaloa Village to Mamalahoa Hwy. 190. (You could also head out of Kona up Palani Street to Hwy 190 and turn left). Turn left and travel several miles to Saddle Road (Hwy 200), turn right. Then you go about 18 miles until you reach the Mauna Kea Summit road on your left.
• At about 9,000 feet you encounter the Visitor’s Center. This is great place to stay for an hour and a half or so to acclimate to the altitude. We usually pack some chili and eat dinner here on the picnic tables.
• By the way, did I mention you need to bring some warm clothes with you
• Plan to leave for the summit no later then 6:00 p.m. The road from here is dirt and steep and very bumpy. Its best to use a four-wheel-drive
• Once you are on the summit, enjoy the sunset view and the astonishing structures of some of the world’s most advanced telescopes.
• Usually 30 minutes after sunset the astronomers want everybody to head back down so they can calibrate their telescopes
• You can return to the Visitor Center and hang out and observe maybe the most stars and planets you will ever see in your life. Most nights amateur astronomers set up their telescopes and offer guided tours of the universe
• When you are ready, head back to where you started out

All in all this is a long adventure, but one you will always remember.

Tree Canopy in Puna

Driving along State Highway 130 in the Puna district of the Big Island one encounters a wonderful tunnel of tall trees that stretches for several miles. This photo was taken in Lava Trees State Park, a great place to explore the geologic, petrified remains of big trees that were caught in old lava flows.

My Hualalai

Hualalai is the fourth largest volcano on the Big Island and is a permanent fixture outside of my home. Every day it presents a different picture or perspective depending upon the atmospheric conditions. Here is a sampling of some of my favorite photos.

Hawaii’s Big Volcanoes from Maui

Nothing beats a visual perspective from 10,000 feet! This photograph was made from the summit of Maui’s Haleakala Volcano and features the Big Island volcanoes of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa probably 40-60 miles in the distance respectively.

Visiting the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Gardens

Just off Highway 19 near Hilo is the Hawaii Botanical Gardens. This 40 acre rain forest “museum” is home to over 2,000 species of plants and flowers from most tropical areas on earth. This is a very worthwhile excursion offering countless opportunities for beautiful photos.

Misty Kahuku

An area of Volcanoes National Park that I like to explore is the Kahuku tract. This area of land which mainly lies in an upland forest was added to the park in 2004.

Hawaii Forest Bird: The I’iwe

I have been trying to take a photograph of this most elusive bird in Hawaii for years. The other day we ventured up the Saddle Road on the Big Island to a kipuka, aptly called “Kipuka 21″. Kipukas are forested areas comprised of mainly native Ohia and Koa trees that are essentially islands of life in the middle of lava fields. This kipuka is called “21″ because it is found at the 21 mile marker coming from Hilo on the Saddle Road.

The I’iwe is another endemic species of Hawaiian forest birds that are on the Endangered Species List.

From the Brink of Extinction: Saving Forest Bird Species in Hawaii

An Alala is found perched in a protective cage at the research facility

I recently had a rare opportunity to visit the Keauhou Bird Conservation Center near Volcano, Hawaii. This facility has been in operation for a number of years and is the forefront of the fight to save many threatened bird species in Hawaii.

I was really impressed with the modernity of the place, the science behind their work, and most specially endeared with a sense of compassion that was displayed by its young staff members.

The center is the focal point of a program developed by the US Fish and Wildlife Service, the State of Hawaii’s Division of Forestry and Wildlife Service and the Zoological Society of San Diego. Their mission is to provide a captive breeding operation for many critically endangered of near extinction species of birds in Hawaii.

Perhaps the bird most in peril is the Alala, or Hawaiian Crow. This bird is no longer surviving in the wild, and is only found at the center. They currently have upwards of 70-80 Alalas housed at the center (that’s all there is left in the world). Their goal is to release back into the wild several mating pairs some time in the future. There is currently much scientific debate as to the best location for the release. The last released occurred in the Nineties and was a complete failure. A large part of the failure was due to loss of habitat necessary for the crow’s survival. In particular the loss of forest regions “understory” due to over-grazing by cattle and pigs has led to a diminishing area of protection critical to the Alala’s survival rates from predators (in particular, the I’o or Hawaiian Hawk).

A researcher at the center hand-feeds an ill baby Palila

The center also is working with other threatened species such as the Palila, found only on the western slopes of Mauna Kea, perhaps numbering around 1,000 birds left in the wild, the Maui Parrotbill.

Mauna Loa and Moon

This photo was taken on one of those rare mornings when the wind was just right, taking the sulphuric haze (locally referred to as “vog”) of nearby Halemaumau to the south and east. Mauna Loa is the largest natural structure by mass volume on earth. Even though in photos it appears to be nothing more than a hill, the shear scale of this nearly 14,000 foot volcano is immense.

Where to Snorkel in Hawaii

In addition to my above the surface pursuits for great locations for nature/landscape photography, I am an avid snorkeler and part-time scuba diver. If you are looking for the best underwater experience, the Big Island is the place to be as we have some of the clearest water teaming with life that can be found in the entire state. Most of these beneficial conditions can be attributed to the young geological age of the island. The best snorkel spots along the western side are near shorelines dominated by old lava flows. Since there are a limited number of sandy beaches, this explains why the water is so clear ( there are other reasons, but this is the primary one).

This photograph was made outside of Honokohau Harbour just north of Kona.